‘Chef’s Table’ and the Virtues of Limits

“When he considers a turnip, it’s like he’s falling in love.” That passion for turnips sets Chef Alain Passard apart from his peers in the world of haute cuisine. Fine French cooking revolves around meat, and the produce-forward menu at Passard’s Arpège in Paris seems to be its own storming of the Bastille. The first … Continued


How Government Bureaucrats Ruined American Food Culture

“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are,” the great French gastronome and essayist Anthelme Brillat-Savarin famously declared. The history of cuisine—what people eat and why—provides a mirror into the manners, beliefs, and aspirations of particular societies. It is in this spirit that food scholars Jane Ziegelman and Andrew Coe … Continued


In Defense of Culturally Appropriating Food

Lena Dunham needs you to pay attention to her. Despite making headlines in February after the debut of season six of her HBO ratings-bomb Girls, and again making news after revealing her fascinating theory that violent crime in America is directly associated with the handguns present in the latest installment of the Jason Bourne franchise … Continued


Home Cooked Meals Aren’t Killing Mother Earth

According to Food and Wine magazine, when I cook a big meal for my family, I’m not just offering nourishment and fostering important domestic traditions (and, according to studies on childhood obesity, improving my child’s chances of staying at a healthy weight), I’m “wasting money and destroying the environment.” That’s rather rich commentary coming from … Continued


PC Food Warriors’ Latest Target? The Costco Egg Aisle

Recently while shopping at Costco (an often weekly trip for our growing and hungry family), I ducked into the dairy section to buy some eggs. My son has allergies to gluten, dairy, and soy, and thus, our egg consumption is astronomical since it is a safe form of protein for him to eat. Last week … Continued


My Kids Don’t Eat Organic. Here’s Why

Last summer my family joined a CSA (short for Community Supported Agriculture). We buy a share of a farm’s output over the season, pay up front, and receive a box of fruits and vegetables every week throughout the spring, summer and early fall. Part of our share includes picking a certain amount of fruits and … Continued

Culture, Parenting

Facebook Food Porn

Spend just five minutes on social media and you’re bound to see at least three things: pictures of cats, articles on Donald Trump, and videos of food. The cat pictures have been there forever, the Trump rants for what feels like forever, but the food videos are relatively new. What we share on social media … Continued


How the Government’s War on Fat Harms Kids

Maybe you’ve seen me in the dairy aisle at my local supermarket. I’m that crazy woman with two young kids in tow yelling at the yogurt selection. Whenever I go shopping I find myself hoping against hope that food companies have had a revelation of sorts regarding food science and seen the light. Alas, that … Continued


The Food Police is Coming for your Girl Scout Cookies

Who doesn’t long for the days when you could eat a damned cookie without agonizing about its origin, its ingredient list, the condition of the workers who made it, and the plants and animals who gave their lives for it? “I just want to chew without so much guilt,” said one exhausted friend when I … Continued